Gentle Ben Griffin Stompin' The Northwest Arete.
Brian on The Center Problem
This is the only granite block in Durango, that i know of…
There are some good lines, and ok ones. also, there are lots of good warm ups on the cliffs surrounding boulder.
On the back side of main boulder there is a
-slab v0 good warm up
-small overhang arete v4 not very good
On the front side, there’s a
-Right Arete, v3 to lip, v5 to mantle, start on good right crimp and left nubin. use slopers and underclings to grab the lip, then do the best beached wale you can and try not to slide back down (i’ve fallen of the damn beach four or five times).
-middle line (aka fat frog or something like that) v6, start on left of ledge and mantle to two tiny crimps then jump for yer life.
-Fat Dog (although i dont think thats its original name, but thats what das book says) v8/9 book says 10, start on left crimp and right sidepull or undercling, heel up and reach for the edge. if you cant figure out the beta from there your screwed on this problem, sorry.
-Left arete, project, same as Fat dog but go up through Gastons and horrible crimps.
heres is a video of fat dog http://vimeo.com/25332100
June 19, 2011 at 10:32 pm
Richie is right, those are not the original names and there pretty lame as well, so lets not let them stick! If nobody knows the orig’ names I say we have a renaming party and come up with something go cuz these prob’s deserve it!
June 27, 2011 at 3:18 pm
I totally agree these problem need/ deserve some better names! The names and grades as they are stated in the book came from Andrew. You can view their video on youtube. You can see it here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XKuqtozSKIU
June 27, 2011 at 3:34 pm
i vote for the linkup to be “no way is that v10”
July 8, 2011 at 6:11 pm
It’s not really conrifmed. There wasn’t a move on the climb which was V16, the hardest was V15. But due to the ridiculous length it was given the grade of V16 when many feel that a route grade is more appropriate. The game was given the grade of V16 because it’s incredibly difficult, not because it’s incredibly long and so I feel is a true V16.I’ve climbed with Chris as well, he’s a great guy but not a v16 climber in my opinion.
June 7, 2012 at 8:49 pm
I think we should probably call the middle problem “leap frog”.
July 21, 2011 at 1:04 pm
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