New routes at 071!!!
Heaven on Earth Boulder:
3. V6 Cuticle FA: Erik Clark Durgin
Start on God’s Finger and continue traversing the lip of the boulder instead of going up the arête. Finish problem by going up Fast Food Sludge.
7. V10 Sussifice AKA God’s Finger Traverse FA: Evan Blair
Start on the far right side near unnecessary Layoffs and traverse left into God’s Finger.
- V8/9? Shiver Me Timbers FA: Erik Clark Durgin
Climbs straight up the arête to the right of Cat Power. Start standing with a left hand pinch on the arête, and right hand in a 2 finger pocket. Climb up the arête and exit out right. This climb has very bad fall potential. So don’t FALL!
I dig the new website dowg! Fuckn proper!
I have a few corrections for you on the 071 beta.
1. Shiver Me Timbers climbs straight up the arete, No traversing. Start on a left hand pinch on the arete at head hight, and right hand in a 2 finger pocket/dish thing. Squeeze your way up the arete and exit out right over the sketchy slab. Very bad fall potential but an amazing problem and totally worth doing!
2. I believe I got the FA of Cuticle quite a while ago (before summer), but its hard to say, and I definitely know of a few people that have climbed it before Kevin. The holds were pretty clean, so someone could have definitely done it before me. V5 would be a really hard grade for this one. Its probably more like hard V6. Super fun extension to God’s Finger if your looking for a bit more of a challenge.
3. Sussifice/God’s Finger Traverse are one in the same. Sussifice ends on God’s Finger not Cuticle. After extensive research by Evan and myself, we have determined that nobody had climbed it before him. Probably more around V10.
September 5, 2010 at 9:17 pm
Thanks for all the corrections! That is what this site is for! Accurate Beta! Hopefully everyone will continue to update this thing and we can have a proper place for sharing! I have corrected the info above. Hopefully I will get to keep adding to this list. Fianlly some other people that see the potentail at 071!!
September 6, 2010 at 4:14 pm
good stuff. One thing though, I planned on spelling it “Sussyphus”. It’s a play on the word suss, as in suss-out, and Sisyphus, the guy in greek mythology who’s rolling the boulder up the hill, but never makes it. Small thing, but I thought I’d add it.
September 19, 2010 at 12:59 pm
The starting hold on cat power on the thunder boulder got ripped off as of 11-10-14. Maybe a stand start would be better for this problem anyway?
November 13, 2014 at 10:26 pm
and also does gods finger stay to the left of the arete or can you stay to the right and bump your left hand up? I was a bit confused. Getting close to sussyphus and I wanna finish it right!
November 13, 2014 at 10:28 pm
I pretty much stay directly on the arête until your bump you left hand to the crimp left of the arête. Then it move back on the the arête itself.
March 2, 2015 at 6:46 am